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Part of the Millennium Set made in honour of the year 2000, this Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5026G represents classicism and modernity with its sleek shape and updated, contemporary colour palette.
First introduced in 1932, the Calatrava reference 96 was one of the earliest wristwatches ever released by Patek Philippe. The manufacture had just been purchased by Charles and Henri Stern, and this was the first model they unveiled, with the intention of breathing a new life into the Genevan brand. Designed by David Penney, who was heavily influenced by the Bauhaus school of art, the Calatrava design favoured simplicity – a significant departure from the excess of the Art Deco era.
Looking back, this original design is considered by many as the ultimate blueprint for a time-only dress watch. Since its inception, the Calatrava has taken on many different forms, including with this reference 5026, which is part of a four-piece set created in 2001 to honour the Millennium year. Only 130 sets were ever created, making this watch a rare find.
This reference 5026G is encased in white gold, with a deep blue dial. The dial is subtly finished with a sunburst pattern, and is brushed outwards from the centre. The watch also features printed Roman numerals in white, with sword-shaped hands in the same colour, adding to the overall understated appearance. Rather unusually, the seconds sub-dial is located in place of the 4 and 5 o’clock index markers, giving a modern touch to what otherwise is a rather classic design.
The watch is signed with “PATEK PHILIPPE – GENEVE” in sans serif font, directly below the 12 o’clock marker, further highlighting the piece’s modern origins. Despite its relatively small size – the piece is only slightly larger than a Calatrava Ref. 96 – it wears larger on the wrist than its dimensions would suggest, thanks to its elongated lugs. The crown also bears the customary Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross.
This watch is powered by the calibre 240 PS, an ultra-thin, self-winding movement that was first launched in 1977, with the 3739 Golden Ellipse. It was also used in Patek Philippe’s ultra-thin perpetual calendars, notably the reference 3940. When viewed through the sapphire caseback, the beautifully finished movement can be seen, with fine Geneva stripes, as well as exquisite chamfering on all angles.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Calatrava will be subject to 20% VAT
Calatrava ref. 5026G
automatic calibre PS 240
hours, minutes, sub-seconds
display back, blue dial
sapphire front & back
saffiano strap from our own collection, Patek Philippe grey gold pin buckle
19 x 16mm
Box & papers:
Patek Philippe outer box, Patek Philippe inner leather box, certificate of origin, archive extract
This Patek Philippe Calatrava 5026G is in very good condition throughout. The case and lugs show light superficial marks consistent with relative wear over time. The hallmarks and engraving on the caseback are crisp and well defined.
The watch is offered with a complimentary service by Patek Philippe. It also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.
We stand by the quality of all of our pre-owned watches and mechanical objects. If something goes wrong, we’ll always strive to remedy the situation in a timely manner and to the best of our ability. The satisfaction and trust of our clients is of the highest importance, to everyone at A Collected Man.
All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough, non-invasive mechanical inspections and have been serviced, if appropriate, to ensure that they meet our highest standards of timekeeping and functionality.
Our pre-owned watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by either a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. This excludes any damage sustained due to improper use or accident. Due to their age, some pre-owned watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when new.
Any of our pre-owned watches which have been serviced by their respective manufacturer, will carry the manufacturer’s servicing guarantee. This is separate and supersedes, the standard warranty offered by A Collected Man. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. You can write to us directly at firstname.lastname@example.org, for further clarification.
A Collected Man is also an authorised retailer for a number of watchmaking brands. These watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer.
We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.
If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.
Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please seehere.
The amount shown on our website does not include local tax rates. If this item is delivered to, or picked up from, a UK address, the standard rate of 20% VAT will be added at checkout. Otherwise, you will be responsible for paying local sales taxes and import fees.
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The Calatrava is often used as a byword for time-only dress watches by Patek Philippe, and while not known as such at the time, the Patek Philippe reference 96 would come to represent the archetype not just for a line that would come to be known as the Calatrava, but of understated dress watches in general.
Produced between 1932 and 1973, the Patek Philippe reference 96 was expressed through a wide variety of dial configurations, featuring no seconds, subsidiary seconds, and offset subsidiary seconds as well as centre seconds (thanks to a clever redesign of the 12’”120’s sub seconds incorporating an additional mechanism by Victorin Piguet that gave it its ‘indirect central seconds’ name). It has featured indices of all varieties – Arabic, Breguet, Roman, and precious stone – not to mention hands from dauphine and baton to pencil and leaf-style.
Case material was yet another area for variety. John Reardon, Founder of Collectability says, “Style variations of the Ref. 96 changed over time based on logo changes over time, points of sale, and even local tastes – for starters, the long signature (PATEK PHILIPPE & Co) vs short signature (PATEK PHILIPPE). This transition occurred circa 1948. Then, of course, [there were] retailer signatures found in many different locations on the dial. Finally, local tastes dictated case and metal preferences.” The Calatrava success was definitely fuelled in part by this diversity. Today the design language it established is seen as foundational to the line.