In 1941, Patek Philippe
released the first serially produced perpetual calendar with chronograph, the reference 1518
. It was decades ahead of any other brand. It not only marked the beginning of perpetual calendar chronographs for the brand, but of serially produced complicated watches for Patek Philippe
, and for the industry in general. The complication has been in Patek
’s catalogue ever since.
70 years on from the release of the original perpetual calendar chronograph, Patek Philippe
released the ref. 5270,
notable for being very first Patek Philippe
perpetual calendar chronograph in the brand’s history to be powered by an in-house movement. The brand abandoned the Lemania
-based caliber which had powered the previous ref. 5970
, and introduced the new caliber 29-535 PS
. For traditional and aesthetic reasons, Patek Philippe opted for a classic, column-wheel-based architecture employing a lateral-clutch engagement mechanism. While prior lateral-clutch chronographs suffered from efficiency issues, the new caliber 29-535 PS was designed from the ground up, incorporating six patented innovations that virtually eliminate these weaknesses. Further, the caliber also incorporates a
precise jumping minute counter: when the seconds hand on the chronograph crosses the 60-second mark, the minute hand instantly jumps to the next minute; a feature which will no doubt mesmerise and delight collectors.Fitted atop the chronograph mechanism is an all-new perpetual calendar module, composed of 182 parts. It incorporates a more precise moon-phase indicator than its predecessor – accurate to one day every 122 years.
Aesthetically, the new caliber is finished to the highest standards. The bridges are shaped with classical curves, and are laid out in an open, logical manner. The movement is beautifully finished, with exquisite chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping. The lateral-clutch architecture also allows the owner to observe exactly how the chronograph movement functions.
The dial on this 5270R
respects the same key design principles as other Patek Philippe
perpetual calendar chronographs. It features a classic opalin velouté
dial, which is gracefully complemented by warm rose gold stick hour markers. This example also features a tachymeter scale, which only appeared on 5270
s in 2013, a feature which harkens back to the original ref. 1518
. You will find the day and month in apertures at 12 o’clock, the date with moon phase at 6 o’clock, a 30-minute counter for the chronograph at 3 o’clock, and seconds indication at 9 o’clock. For improved readability, the day/night and leap year indications were placed within small apertures to the right and left of the date/moon phase subdial at 6 o’clock, taking inspiration from the leap-year aperture first used by Patek in the reference 3450 perpetual calendar launched in 1981.Scaled up from previous iterations of this complication, the 5270 features a contemporary 41mm case. It is 1mm wider and 0.6 mm thinner than the ref. 5970, which gives the case superb balance. The flared lugs are reminiscent of the ref. 2499, yet the chunkier case and more aggressive angling of the lugs gives the watch a sportier feel. This particular example comes in rose gold, which paired with the
classic opalin velouté dial, gives the watch a classic, elegant presence.This Patek Philippe ref. 5270R comes as a full-set, with its original brown alligator strap, Patek Philippe deployante buckle, box, papers and archive extract.It also comes on one of our Seville straps, made out of double-tanned calfskin in a cognac-tan hue.Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.