November 2020 15 Min Read

The enigmatic Khanjar watches of the Sultan of Oman

By Russell Sheldrake

A curved dagger on a belt, atop two crossed swords, has become an almost iconic symbol in the world of watches. With links to Middle Eastern royalty and appearing on a small handful of pieces, it embodies the meeting point between rarity, history and intrigue. Though it does not specifically reference mechanical craft or refined design, the Khanjar crest is perhaps one of the best examples of provenance, capturing the imagination of collectors and enthusiasts alike.

This storied glyph traces its history to the earliest days of Oman as a modern nation, and speaks, in many ways, to how it built its influence in the 20th century. There are few recent, comparable ties, between a royal family and the finest Swiss manufactures. The late Sultan of Oman, Qaboos bin Said al Said – the longest-serving monarch in the Middle East and Arab world – was at the epicentre of those relationships. With Oman's 50th national day, the late Sultan’s birthday, celebrated last week, a year after his passing, we took the opportunity to find out more.

An unusual way to see the Khanjar, outside of the case.

How did this recently established nation, convince some of the world’s pre-eminent watch brands to display the country’s crest, alongside their own logos? More to the point, how was Rolex convinced to move their signature on some dials, to accommodate the Khanjar, a feat that seems almost unthinkable today? We were able to gain a unique insight into the origins of these watches thanks to the input of several individuals who, based in Oman, have close links to the pieces themselves, as well as the late Sultan. The information they have provided has helped shape much of this article, although as private individuals they have requested not to be named.

Separately, we also spoke to those who have discovered, handled and enjoyed many of these watches since they left the country - from collectors like Wulf Schuetz and Hendra, to auctioneers such as Sam Hines, the Worldwide Head of Watches at Sotheby’s. While the full story of these pieces, could only really have been properly told by the late Sultan himself, we hope that we shed some light on these intriguing watches and possibly correct a few myths, too good to be true, along the way. In these situations, however, the truth is often more fantastic than the fiction.

How did the Khanjar end up on watches?

As many know, the Khanjar is the national symbol of Oman. It was introduced by the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, to appear on the new country’s flag in 1970. There are points of contention surrounding this period of history, especially when looking at the involvement of the