Patek Philippe Aquanaut | 5650G | Advanced Research | White Gold

One of 500

Regular price £159,500
As the first of Patek Philippe’s ‘Advanced Research’ watches to innovate using a material other than silicon (forgoing the use of an annual or perpetual calendar complication), the reference 5650G represents something of a transition, introducing two innovations. Unlike earlier, classically-styled Advanced Research pieces from the series, both the open-worked dial and Aquanaut case of this 5650G, although polarising, match the ambitions of the reference - a limited-production of just 500 pieces, showcasing innovation in traditional watchmaking.

Patek Philippe’s Advanced Research Program stems from the development of silicon components, for use in watchmaking. Following years of extensive research work at the Centre Suisse d’Electronique et Microtechnique (CSEM), Patek Philippe introduced their first silicon component in 2005 – an escapement wheel made from Silinvar. A year later, the Spiromax balance spring (constructed from Silinvar) was introduced in a limited-edition reference - now widely used by Patek Philippe throughout the collection. It is these advancements that represent the objectives of the project, indicating the brand’s intentions for the compliant mechanism and other developments seen in the 5650G.

Released in 1997, the Aquanaut was the first Patek Philippe to be fitted with a rubber strap. The Aquanaut re-interprets a number of signature design elements from the highly successful Nautilus - most notably, the octagonal rounded bezel. It displays a high level of finishing, with brushed surfaces on the case front, and polished, bevelled edges. In this example, the white-gold, three-piece case (measuring 40.8mm in diameter) of the 5650G provides water resistance up to 120m.

The hand-finished "compliant mechanism" is visible in an open section at 9 o’clock on the dial (made up of four crossed leaf springs) - introduced in this reference, lowering the number of parts required to make a GMT switching mechanism from 37, to just 12 parts (for the whole assembly). This is made feasible through the use of computer simulations and highly-technical manufacturing techniques - using no gears or pivots, and crafted from a single piece of steel, rather than precious metal or an exotic alloy. The added benefit is the lack of friction in the system, requiring no conventional lubricants and improving durability.

The blue dial has a gradient to black on its outer edges, embossed with familiar Aquanaut patterning. Alongside the open section at 9 o’clock, displays are also visible for the local date at 6 o’clock (with 'Advanced Research' denoted) and a day/night indicator for two time zones at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively. Numerals are applied (as with other modern Aquanauts) and crafted from 18k white-gold, filled with a white-coloured luminous material to match the dial and hands.

The reference 5650G-001 integrates Patek Philippe’s latest iteration of the Spiromax balance spring, making use of a new inner terminal curve. With this addition, an impressive stability rate of just -1/+2 seconds per day is achieved. The watch carries the Calibre 324 S C FUS - a 29-jewel, automatic-winding movement that is superbly finished, with exquisite chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration in the form of Geneva striping, bearing the Patek Philippe seal. The movement beats at 28,800 A/h, with a power-reserve of approximately 45 hours.

This Patek Philippe 5650G-001 comes on its original checkerboard rubber strap (brand new and uncut) and corresponding white-gold deployant-clasp. The watch is full-set, with its original box, Certificate of Origin and product literature from the manufacture (dated October, 2017). With only 500 examples produced, this rare limited-edition Aquanaut represents an exceptionally desirable and mechanically interesting variant of a highly-collectible modern Patek Philippe.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: Advance Research Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G-001
Movement: mechanical, automatic-winding calibre 324 SC FUS
Functions: GMT, date, hours, minutes, centre seconds
Features: display back, Silinvar escapement, Arabic numerals, compliant mechanism
Case: 40.8mm white gold
Crystal: sapphire front and display back
Bracelet: new Patek Philippe rubber strap and deployant clasp
Year: 12th October, 2017
Box & papers: original box, product literature, Certificate of Origin
This Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5650G Advanced Research comes with its original box, Certificate of Origin and product literature. It remains in excellent condition (with one very minor mark on the bezel at 7 o'clock), and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, and a lifetime guarantee of authenticity. 

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches are covered by a full, or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer worldwide delivery on all of our watches.

If ordering from the UK or Europe before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on choice of courier and destination. 

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.