Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, 4300V/120R-B642, Rose Gold

The Overseas collection was first revealed in 1996, although the line traces its roots back to 1977, when the reference 222 was introduced. The Overseas inherits both design cues – such as the notched bezel and angular integrated bracelet – as well as the overall utilitarian, yet luxurious feel from the 222.

The reference Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton was first seen in 2020, winning the Calendar and Astronomy Watch prize at the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This iteration of the aesthetic, with a rose gold case and blue skeletonised dial, was added to the line-up in 2022.

It features a 41.5mm tonneau-shaped rose gold case and an extravagantly skeletonised dial completed in shades of blue. The midnight blue of the outer chapter of minutes matches the chapters of the three subsidiary registers expressing the day, date and months over the course of a four-year period. These registers feature simple rose gold hands. While the Arabic numerals on the minutes chapter are in a lighter shade of blue, the printing on the subsidiary registers is in white, save for the months of the leap year – these are also done in light blue for visual contrast.

At 6 o'clock, there's a display approximating the moonphases, with an overlapping translucent detail featuring the brand mark. The blue of the moonphase disc appears to be a lighter shade than the other dial furniture and is very lightly textured and decorated with engraved constellations and hand-painted stars. The layout of the registers brings to mind the neo-vintage reference 43032. Rose gold pencil-style hands applied with hour markers of varying sizes, filled with luminous material, complete the picture. The subdials have been skeletonised to lay bare the underlying calibre 1120 QP, which is also visible through the sapphire caseback.

The case, vertically satinated, has broad shoulders that integrate a richly detailed rose gold bracelet, with sharp, internal angles in between the links polished by hand. The signature bezel, high polished, wears the partial motif of the Maltese Cross, a recurring detail on the case and bracelet. The case is broad, flat, and thin; in fact, it is only half a millimetre thicker than the Overseas Ultra-Thin. The midcase bears the signed crown as well as the four correctors to manipulate the perpetual calendar complication. The bracelet, with its convenient quick release feature, can be swapped out with the blue leather or rubber straps the watch retails with. Each is secured by its own rose gold pin buckle.

On the caseback, the rim of the sapphire crystal ledgers the brand mark, country of origin, Geneve seal, and serial and reference numbers, as well as the precious metal hallmarks. Also mentioned here are the 50m water resistance and antimagnetic quality of the calibre. This is because the calibre is protected by a soft iron inner ring, protecting it from the effects of magnetism in everyday life.

The ultra-slim calibre 1120 QP is based on the historical calibre 1121 that powered the Vacheron Constantin 222, with a perpetual calendar module built on top. The calibre 1121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1967, co-sponsored by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, with all three brands employing the resulting movement. The Vacheron calibre 1121 remains one of the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movements in the world, often considered one of the most refined and technically impressive wristwatch movements ever made.

The 276-parts of the 1120 QP are thoroughly skeletonised to their basic structure wherever possible, with components beautifully finished to standards befitting the Geneva Seal. It features a 22-carat gold self-winding rotor decorated in a wind rose motif.

The watch comes with its full set of presentation case, owners’ manual, and warranty paperwork, as well as the additional straps it retailed with. It represents an attractive, thoroughly modern, luxurious, and ultra-slim installment in the evolution of a popular utilitarian aesthetic that is just as current now as it was in the 1970s.

Closer look

Condition

This Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is in very good overall condition. Light superficial marks are found throughout the case, lugs, and bracelet consistent with relative wear, though only on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. The hallmarks on the case, bracelet, and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man as well as the remaining duration of the manufacturer warranty from Vacheron Constantin.