Created at the turn of the century, this reference 3940 is an excellent example of the neo-vintage movement, marking an exciting period of rebirth for the watch industry. At 36mm, the watch is a size that is reminiscent of vintage Patek Philippe references, further adding to its charm.

An elegant piece that has found itself in high demand from collectors in recent years, the reference 3940 is perhaps the most iconic perpetual calendar of the modern era. The design focuses on balance, with its three registers showing various functions neatly balanced out. The sub-dial at three o'clock shows the leap-year counter and the months (in German), in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving depth to the otherwise lightly brushed, silver dial. In a similar fashion, the months and day/night indicators are placed at nine o'clock. The silver moon-phase is found at six o'clock, surrounded by the days of the month.

The dauphine hands add a touch of sharpness to what only can be described as a beautifully executed timepiece. Evidence suggests that the 3940 dials were produced by Stern Frères, who provided many to Patek Philippe during this period. Some of the characteristics associated with a third series example, such as the "σ SWISS σ" printed in line with the outer minute track and hallmarks stamped on the reverse of all four lugs, can be found on this model. This grey gold example is especially understated in styling and size, its slim case is matched by an equally slim movement.

Representing the best of Swiss design, the movement itself is no less a technical feat. This example has an open case back, which reveals the fantastic hand-finishing, including Côtes de Genève with its quality guaranteed by the Genevan Seal. The ultra-thin self-winding movement, powered by an off-centre 22k gold micro-rotor, has been in use by Patek Philippe since the 1970s, and has been incorporated into a number of their modern perpetual lines.

Closer look

Condition

The case of this 3940G has been very well preserved, with no obvious signs of polishing. There are light superficial marks visible throughout, though no deeper imperfections of note. The profile of the case remains strong, with a pronounced step between the bezel section and case sides, while the lugs retain their shape. The hallmarks on the reverse side of the lugs are nicely defined, with only a very light fading on the edge of the "PPCo" stamp. Overall, they are crisp as shown in photography.

The dial and hands are equally well preserved, with no signs of imperfection under magnification. Likewise, with the movement, which is in excellent condition. The watch keeps excellent time, with all functions working as they should.

This 3940G is accompanied by the original inner and outer boxes and Certificate of Origin, the latter of which is signed by the original retailer in Germany. Though not dated, the internal reference code printed on the Certificate of Origin indicates that the document was printed in November 2001.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.