Third generation watchmaker Laurent Ferrier’s life has been shaped by the 40 years he spent as creative director of Patek Philippe. Beyond watchmaking, Ferrier also notably raced at the 24 Hours of Le Mans, coming in third in 1979 behind none other than Paul Newman. From his artisanal workshop in the small village of Vernier on Geneva’s outskirts, each watch bearing the maker’s name is hand-assembled from start to finish by a single watchmaker.
This example is made unique because it was the first to be powered by the brand’s new calibre at the time, the in-house, self-winding LF 229.01. The high-quality movement combines traditional watchmaking with modern conveniences, by way of a micro-rotor self-winding mechanism that allows an uninterrupted view of the finely finished movement through a sapphire caseback. The significant prototype was first auctioned at Only Watch 2011.
The fan-shaped micro rotor is crafted from solid gold yellow gold and is suspended from large bridge, anchored by a jewel in gold chaton. The micro-rotor’s profile is engraved with the words ‘Only Watch’. The bridge too is finely finished with beautiful anglage. The micro-rotor makes use of a pawl, allowing it to wind in a unidirectional manner. This prototype example was the first instance in which many of the brand’s improvements to movement architecture, which would later make it production variants, were seen.
The calibre utilises a double direct-impulse escapement, achieved by locking the escape lever between two escape wheels. This results in a steady amplitude and is a less power intensive arrangement as well. It is in part the reason for the impressive timekeeping performance, with the Galet Micro-Rotor deemed a chronometer by the Observatoire de Besançon, widely acknowledged to have a higher standard than COSC. The movement offers 72 hours of autonomy.
The bridges, shaped to show off balance and some of the wheels of the going train, feature edges adorned with precise anglage. On top, the bridges wear fine Côtes de Genéve, with engravings detailing the brand name, jewel count, and adjustment positions. Also engraved is the word ‘Prototype’. The balance bridge, visually distinct thanks to its black polishing, has precise inward angles. The baseplate has elegant perlage finishing.
This notable calibre is mated to a 40mm stainless-steel case of the pebble-like form associated with the brand’s watches. The three-part case is evenly rounded and highly polished, with thin, tapering lugs originating from the midcase. The signature onion-shaped crown completes the classical appearance. The rim around the caseback also wears the word ‘Prototype’ in an elegant calligraphic engraving.
The chestnut brown, guilloche-worked flinqué dial is pleasing. The billowing concentric wave pattern is interrupted only by the printed brand mark. It wears a chapter of thin and tapering applied hour markers that are harmonious with the brand’s signature ‘Assegai’ hands. The bottom half of the dial features the subsidiary seconds register with a printed white chapter.
This watch comes with its original outer and inner boxes, loupe as well as its Besançon chronometer certification from 2012. It wears a black, alligator-grained leather strap secured by a stainless-steel signed pin buckle.
Even within the small output of pieces produced by Laurent Ferrier, this Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Micro-Rotor Prototype marks a significant chapter in the independent brand’s history. It is not every day that such a prototype is found outside the displays of brands’ museums, let alone made available for purchase.
