Ressence is a young, independent brand with a unique approach to contemporary watchmaking. Founded by the Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens in 2010, all of the brand’s watches carry ever-changing “regulator” dials, in which the sub-dials and main disc continually orbit one another.
Legibility and efficiency are at the core of this Ressence Type 5B, which aims to rethink how divers’ watches are presented. This specific example is an early prototype of the design, making it an especially rare find, as typically, prototypes remain within the brand or with employees involved in their creation, so one appearing publicly is always intriguing.
The watch embraces its function as a tool watch, integrating the organic shape of a pebble with a diving bezel and a case with more traditional lugs. In terms of its construction, the Type 5B is a close relative of the Type 3, with a display floating in oil that circumvents some of the traditional issues with divers’ watches. As the components are constantly submerged in oil, this allows the parts to remain lubricated, while the fact that they are suspended reduces the amount of power needed to operate the watch. Additionally, the floating display supposedly allows for the watch to be legible from any angle, a useful trait when underwater.
The dial is a deep black that with white markings, although the Type 5B does not shy away from colour, and uses red, yellow, and blue colours as indicators on the temperature sub-dial. The orbital display shows hours and minutes on convex discs, which, in the absence of a traditional crown, can be set and wound from the caseback. It features a “Type 2” engraving, printed in a green font; a feature only found on the prototypes of the Type 5B. Meanwhile, the case is made from titanium, a lightweight material that wears comfortably on the wrist.
The watch is split into two modules – a lower half comprised of a customised self-winding ETA 2824/2 ébauche, and a display module, or Ressence Orbital Convex System. Composed of 107 parts, 27 gears and 40 jewels, the gears in the ROCS calculates the hours, seconds and day, taking only the minute as a reference from the movement.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Ressence Type 5B will be subject to 20% VAT.