Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar, 3940J, Doré Dial, Yellow Gold

The 3940 is perhaps the most iconic perpetual calendar of the modern era. The design, typified by the balanced, three-register layout, and its classical proportions have made the reference hugely sought after. This example, with the 36mm case executed in yellow gold, is paired with a rare and attractive doré dial. This refers to the light golden colour notably associated with the earliest Beyer-signed 3940s that featured first series dials in this rare doré tone.

This particular example is marked by a key hallmark that dates it as a second series example, produced around the years of 1987 and 1989. It features slightly recessed registers that followed the first series with deep, sunken sub-dials. Examples of the reference 3940 with this type of dial are typically only found in pieces made fairly early on in production, and it would seem much fewer were made than later series. Another unusual feature of this particular watch are the yellow hands for the sub-dials, which are usually blackened for the day and month indications for legibility. The trade-off is a fully golden execution, which only adds to the vintage style and charm of the watch.

The gently recessed sub-dial at 3 o'clock, that shows the leap-year counter and the months in English, has it counterpart in the one at 9 o’clock. This similarly recessed register houses the months and day/night indicators, also printed in English. These registers give depth to the beautifully vertically satinated doré dial. The third register at 6 o’clock, has a chapter of 31 printed days with the moonphase complication at the centre. The rich blue of the sky in this complication, gives the face a pop of colour.

While the hours and minutes hands are of the sharp, dauphine variety, the ones in the subdials are leaf-style. Irrespective, they are forged from yellow gold, as are the faceted applied hour indices. The chapter of applied minute plots are also of a golden shade, and this serves to give the face a uniform and understated appearance. Completing the dial is a low "σ SWISS σ" printed in black at 6 o’clock, consistent with the period of manufacture.

While concealed from view by a solid caseback, the calibre 240Q powering this reference is finished with beautiful côtes de Genève and wears with the Genevan Seal. Patek Philippe has been employing this ultra-thin self-winding movement, self-wound by the 22k gold micro-rotor since the 1970s and it has found its way into a number of the brand’s modern perpetual lines.

This interesting and coveted example of the reference 3940 comes on a leather strap with a yellow gold pin buckle.

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar is in good condition overall. The case and lugs show very little signs of wear throughout with early signs of light oxidation present to the stepped bezel and between the lugs. The case appears to have been lightly polished in the past. The seldom seen doré dial, dauphine hands, and gold subsidiary hands are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved.

The watch has been inspected by Patek Philippe, who have recommended a service and replacement of the yellow gold correctors and winding crown. An Extract from the Archives has been provided and comes with the watch, confirming the "gilt" dial.

Warranty

Though the watch is keeping good time and all the functions operate as they should - in light of the above - no mechanical warranty is offered. The watch has however been fully inspected by Patek Philippe and their report can be provided upon request. The watch is covered by a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.