Hailing from a long lineage of impressive perpetual calendars, this Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5059P was produced between the years of 1998 to 2006. It is one of the more recent examples of classical Patek Philippe watchmaking, and possesses a typically traditional feel. This reference is the predecessor of the reference 5159, a modern example in a slightly larger size and updated dial design that was launched in 2007, just after the reference 5059 was discontinued.

The most striking aspect of the watch is its retrograde date function, which is a challenging complication to integrate for any watch, as a large amount of energy is needed for the watch to swing back from the last to the first position. A further intriguing detail found on this watch is the colour of the date hand, which is a muted silver, compared to the typical black found on most other examples. The owner of the piece specifically requested this change from Patek Philippe after the purchase, and this variation speaks to a time when the manufacture were perhaps more flexible and open to such requests. The watch now bears a noteworthy trait that separates it from the rest, accompanied by a letter which confirms the change.

Overall, the style of the watch leans heavily towards the classical, with a white dial and black printed indexes. Despite the large amount of information the watch displays, the design of the dial does an admirable job in ensuring that all elements are balanced, with the day and month subdials replacing 9 and 3 o'clock respectively, and a seconds-track encircling the perimeter of the dial. A moonphase sits above 6 o'clock, with a silvered moon and stars against a dark night sky.

This reference 5059P features a case with a hinged caseback. The calibre that powers the watch is the 315 S QR, a self-winding movement used by Patek Philippe between the years of 1984 - 2005.

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5059P is in good condition overall. The case and lugs show marks from wear over time. Most notably scuffs on the upper left and lower right lug. On the left side of the mid case scuffs are visible, likely from the watch being left on its side. Dings are found on the bezel at 3 o'clock, between 5-6 o'clock, between 7-8 o'clock and between 9 and 10 o'clock. The dial hands and movement are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks and engravings on the hinged caseback are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.