Third generation watchmaker Laurent Ferrier’s life has been shaped by the 40 years he spent as creative director of Patek Philippe. So, it is natural that for the first complication at his independent manufacture, Ferrier looked to the storied manufacture’s past. In many ways, the Galet Traveller takes obvious inspiration from the Patek Philippe Travel Time reference 2597. The aesthetic of the Galet Traveller is, however, all of his own.
The 41mm red gold, with a pronounced, rounded bezel and domed sapphire crystal, meets a similarly formed midcase. This gives the watch a pebble-like organic form that is as pleasing to the eye as it is to the touch. The display caseback has a simple rounded bezel with a raised lip designed to aid watchmakers when opening the caseback.
The midcase features two pushers on the left flank that help quickset the main hour hand to travel time. The pushers, much like in the reference 2597, are rounded in profile, with a ridge in the middle. The one at 11 o’clock advances the hour hand forward in one-hour increments, while the pusher at 8 o’clock retreats it. The lugs, integrated into the midcase, gradually taper and curve down. Their 20mm distance is furnished with a brown, alligator-style leather strap, with suede lining. It is secured by a signed, red gold pin buckle clasp.
The dial features a circular satinated outer rim with finely applied gold hour markers that frame the cloisonné centre. At 9 o’clock is an arched window with a digital ‘home’ time display, while its counterpart at 3 o’clock, displays the date. The date can be adjusted forwards or backwards via the onion-style crown. The primary display, plied by assegai-style red gold hands, indicates ‘travel’ time.
The enamel centre, framed by a rim, is achieved by cloisonné technique – land masses are hemmed in by raised gold boundaries. Layers of enamel paint are then applied to achieve varying shades of the same tone, the result most visible in the blue of the oceans and the green of the land masses. On other continents, colours such as yellow bleed to red, approximating the weather patterns in those places. The enamel paint is treated with heat to achieve a glass-like texture.
Visible through the exhibition caseback is the self-winding calibre LF 230.01. It has a double direct impulse escapement – the escape lever is locked down between two escape wheels. This arrangement is less power-intensive and aids in maintaining a stable amplitude. The movement, with a fully integrated dual-time zone mechanism, beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and is wound by a solid gold micro-rotor. This rotor is beautifully engraved by engine turning, while the bridges are finished with delicate Geneva stripes. The edges of these bridges have been finished with anglage, and the baseplate wears perlage. The open-work balance bridge as well as the one anchoring the micro rotor are black polished.
The Galet Traveller is a thoroughly modern reimagining of the classic travel complication, elevated by hand craft by one of the best respected independent brands.