Roger Dubuis
Hommage Chronograph Perpetual Calendar | Bi-Retrograde | rose gold

H37 5637 5

Regular price

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Roger Dubuis
Hommage Chronograph Perpetual Calendar | Bi-Retrograde | rose gold

H37 5637 5

Regular price

This early Roger Dubuis Hommage Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. H37) rose gold, chronometer-graded watch is one of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, after establishing his own brand in 1995. It has a glossy, off-white lacquer dial and the movement was regulated by M. Roger Dubuis himself.

This watch is one of only a handful of early Roger Dubuis pieces which were kept by the former authorised retailer Presmanes, Santander, as part of the jeweller's first delivery in 1996. They never publicly sold and kept unworn from new. This H37 5637 5 example therefore offers a unique insight, owing to its overall condition, completeness and early production.

Roger Dubuis career started in a typical watchmaker's fashion - learning his craft at large manufactures, including Patek Philippe. These formative years are clearly reflected in the style of this Hommage Chronograph watch, inspired by classics such as the Patek Philippe's Ref. 130 - albeit, with a contemporary twist.

It is understood that for each variant in the series, there were no more than 28 examples made. Each was chronometer-graded from the Besançon Observatory. One of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, after establishing his own brand in 1995, they're now highly collectible.

According to Mr Dubuis himself, he starting working on his first complication in the late 1980s - a perpetual calendar module with retrograde displays. For several years, Roger Dubuis worked on the complication with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (founder of respective complications specialist Agenhor), for Harry Winston, who announced their own version of the Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar at Baselworld, in 1989. It was the first double retrograde perpetual calendar, and Roger Dubuis later made the same perpetual module the signature complication of his brand. The Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is one of the quintessential Roger Dubuis watches of the era, powered by the Lemania cal. 2310 (as with Patek Philippe’s version of the same, except the Roger Dubuis is bi-retrograde).

The design is that of a two-register chronograph, with an off-white, lacquer dial. It’s painted with black, stylised fonts and red minute markers, which add a nice contrast against the dial. The minute and hour hands are faceted rose gold, with blued chronograph, 30-minute counter and skeletonised date hands. Two ‘arcs’ are visible on the dial at 3 and 9 o’clock, showing the day and date, respectively. The months at 12 o'clock are separated into quarters to indicate the leap year cycle. The case itself is very distinct, with its polished, stepped concave bezel and brushed concave lugs. The three-piece case is classically sized at 37mm.

The watch is powered by the Cal. RD 5632 (based on the Lemania 2310), bearing the Seal of Geneva. The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 25 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Brand: Roger Dubuis
Model: Hommage Ref. H37 5637 5 - limited edition of 28
Movement: mechanical manual-winding Cal. RD5632
perpetual calendar, bi-retrograde date, chronograph, hours, minutes, sub-seconds
Features: lacquer dial, display back, rose gold hands
Case: 37 mm 18-carat rose gold
Crystal: sapphire front and back
Bracelet: Roger Dubuis alligator strap, original deployant clasp
Year: 1996
Box & papers: original boxes, papers, chronometer certificate, solid caseback, hangtags
This early Roger Dubuis Hommage Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is in excellent condition and retains all of its original features. The case is well-preserved, with minor signs of oxidisation. The latter is visible near the chronograph pushers. Whilst left unopened, the watch is guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

During a period of adjustment, we are unable to ship watches to the EU. We continue to offer express delivery to all other countries.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on choice of courier and destination. 

Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here.

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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