De Bethune DB12WT, White Gold

In 2002, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet joined forces to establish De Bethune, united by their shared vision of what contemporary watchmaking could look like. Zanetta was an enthusiastic collector, with a passion for art and history, whilst Flageollet was an accomplished fourth-generation watchmaker. The name “De Bethune” pays tribute to the Chevalier de Bethune, a French nobleman credited with inventing an escapement mechanism for pocket watches and clocks in 1727.

Part of the “Founding Collection” produced between 2002 and 2007, this De Bethune DB12WT is an especially early example of the brand’s work. The piece is also exceptionally rare, as one of only five pieces produced for the Chicago-based retailer, Swiss Fine Timing.

The design of the piece combines modern aesthetics with traditional watchmaking techniques, as seen in the dark grey dial with rose gold accents, with a modern font juxtaposed against a guilloche dial. The calibre used within the watch is an ebauché of the Venus 175, a chronograph movement that was introduced in 1942. Meanwhile, a markedly more futuristic touch that pays homage to the more futuristic elements of the brand’s body of work is the inclusion of De Bethune’s signature ogival-shaped lugs. This is a feature borrowed from Gothic architecture that refers to a pointed, curved surface not unlike the shape of a bullet.

Ultimately, the piece is an excellent example of the philosophy that De Bethune espouses, combining their independent spirit and technical skill to create an exciting piece. Given the rarity and attractive appearance of the watch, it is a remarkable opportunity for the collector searching to own a significant, foundational piece of a brand’s history.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this De Bethune DB12WT will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This De Bethune DB12 is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with wear over time. There are some more noticeable marks in some areas, most notably on the bezel at 4 o’clock, on the left-hand side of the case, and on the right-hand side of the case, close to the bottom pusher.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.