Patek Philippe Chronograph Nautilus, 5980A/1A-001, Stainless Steel

Here is a thoroughly modern interpretation of the well-known Gerald Genta design for the 1976 Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3700. This reference 5980A, with its 40.5mm stainless steel case and chronograph complication is as visually distinct as it is historically important. It represents the first time a chronograph was introduced to the Nautilus and the first selfwinding chronograph from the historic Genevan house. This particular example, first sold in 2009, three years after the reference was introduced, means it is part of the initial generation of watches. The calibre still features the Geneva Seal, a practice the brand phased out in favour of its own mark starting in 2009.

It wears a blueish-grey dial with horizontal grooves, an aesthetic intrinsic to the Nautilus. Dial furniture includes prominent white gold hour markers from the 8 to 4 o’clock positions, filled with luminous material. The only exception is the two 12 o’clock, which features twin markers, for ease of reading the time in the dark. Around it runs a white, printed chapter of minutes, with Arabic numerals corresponding to the markers. At 3 o’clock is a well-proportioned date window, with a white wheel with black Arabic numerals. It is adjusted by a corrector situated at the 7 o’clock position on the midcase. The white gold hours and minutes hands are baton-style and filled with luminous material.

The seconds counter for the chronograph is co-axially mounted with the hours and minutes hands while elapsed minutes and hours are displayed in the subsidiary register at 6 o’clock. This register has a sector-style set up, with a scale for elapsed minutes on the outermost edge, finished in silver, circular graining. This scale corresponds to a hand with a red pointer, co-axially mounted with another, smaller hand, that registers elapsed hours printed in white in the inner dark blue sector. This part also features the same circular grained finish, with half hours indicated by a red dot, while whole hours are printed in white Arabic numerals. This area also incorporates a small Swiss mark. All the chronograph hands are finished in a frosted silver finish, visually uniting them, while also distinguishing them from the polished finished hands that indicate the time.

The chronograph is of the flyback variety, which means it can start recording a new event without the need for it to be reset. It is operated using the polished square pushers on the right hand side of the case, flanking the screwed down crown. The case features a three part construction with the bezel, that extends in the form of the two ears, secured by screws onto the midcase. The display caseback reveals Patek Philippe’s in-house calibre CH 28-520, equipped with a Breguet overcoil balance spring, and a four arm Gyromax balance beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The calibre is beautifully finished and wears the Geneva Seal. Topping it off is a 21k solid gold rotor with the Patek Philippe mark engraved on it.

The bracelet, just like the case, wears precisely finished alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It has a butterfly-style clasp, with a fold over security, for added peace of mind.

The watch comes with its original box and all requisite paper, including a certificate of origin from Patek Philippe.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Chronograph Nautilus will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph is in excellent condition throughout. The case and lugs only show light superficial marks and likely only been worn on a handful of occasions. More specifically, there are light marks on the polished facet of the bezel and a light ding on the bezel at the 8 o'clock position. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfection.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.