Moritz Grossmann Benu Tourbillon | silver dial | white gold
When it comes to complicated watches, there is something infinitely more impressive when mastered by an independent brand. These days, tourbillons have almost become a rite of passage amongst the elite of haute-horlogerie - with Moritz Grossmann quickly joining their ranks.
The Benu Tourbillon mixes the best of classicism and complication, with the tourbillon cage revealed through an aperture at six o'clock. As this interrupts the minute track of the dial, the manufacture rather smartly added a minute scale from '25-35', between the two sub-dials. When the minute hand passes along the lower part of the dial, the correct minute can be read with the help of the counterweight at the other end. All this in the pursuit of precision. The white silver dial has a two-register layout, and can be easily read. The hours are shown on the sub-dial at three o'clock with large Arabic numerals, the minutes on the main dial, while the sub-seconds register sits at nine o'clock.
Further legibility is added with the use of Moritz Grossmann's trademark hands. With their fluid shape, three-dimensional presence and hand-finishing, they contrast perfectly with the dial. A pair of hands is created in-house over the course of four days. To achieve their unusual, purple hue, the watchmaker has to heat the hands manually over an open flame. The colour will continually change, but only hold the purple tone for a very brief time.
The movement is traditionally-conceived but like the dial, not without some technical surprises. A testament to the brand's serious commitment to reliability and durability, as well as the founder's considerable knowledge of watchmaking, the movement uses horology's best, most reliable and perhaps obscure heavyweights, including the Grossmann balance and winder. The latter is operated through a pusher next to the crown, and restarts the movement after the crown is pulled-out, to set the time. A smart solution to stop the seconds’ hand as it further increases precision - something that makes considerable sense for a tourbillon-based movement.
If this wasn’t enough, the devil as always, is in the detail, and we mean really fine detail. Moritz Grossmann uses a fine brush of 20-25 human hair to stop the oscillating balance wheel. The hair is that of the founder's, Christine Hutter and is more than a simple novelty. Human hair is extremely soft, yet very resistant, a perfect solution where the longevity of the movement is considered of equally high importance, to its precision.
Turning to the movement, this is beautifully engraved and finished. Looking through a loupe at the three-band snailing on the ratchet wheel, the purple hue of the screws and the exquisitely polished anglage, one feels that nothing is left to chance. With each of the 245 components hand-finished to the highest possible standard, this is a strong example of just why German watchmaking is making such headway in the world haute-horlogerie.
With its elegant look, the Benu Tourbillon makes an excellent dress watch, and while many might hesitate to wear such a complicated watch on a regular basis, that’s not a problem here. Moritz Grossmann is made to last.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment. The price is inclusive of 20% EU-wide VAT.
|Movement:||mechanical manual-winding Cal. 103.0 with human hair|
|Functions:||3-minute tourbillon, hours, minutes, sub-seconds|
|Features:||display back, purple steel hands|
|Case:||44.5 mm white gold|
|Crystal:||sapphire front and back|
|Bracelet:||black alligator strap with hidden deployant clasp|
|Box & papers:||box and papers|
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