Oileán HB-1, Titanium

£32,000
Price excludes 20% VAT for UK buyers. Learn more
Watchdrawer

This is one of 19 examples that Irish watchmaker John McGonigle has made so far of his first watch, the HB-1 under his independent brand Oileán. It has a lightweight 40mm titanium case and a smoky sapphire dial that offers a glimpse of the mechanics of the historic Valjoux 88 triple calendar chronograph movement underneath. The vintage calibre has been extensively redesigned and hand finished to a very high degree.

Movement

Not so long ago, the average consumer didn’t care whether or not their movement was made in-house. This "in-house" phenomena is an overwhelmingly modern one, driven in equal measure by marketing departments and increasing vertical integration within brands.

Prior to this, the watch world ran on an ecosystem of specialised manufacturers who produced one or two components for an entire host of brands. This network of suppliers had kept the industry ticking for decades and some of them even became household names, like Gay Frères, Lemania or Valjoux for example.

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 140.025 Platinum preowned watch at A Collected Man London
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 140.025 Platinum preowned watch at A Collected Man London
caseback Daniel Roth 10th Anniversary Papillon  White Gold preowned watch at A Collected Man London
caseback Daniel Roth 10th Anniversary Papillon  White Gold preowned watch at A Collected Man London

Using a proven and affordable base automatic movement makes smart business sense. Look at some of the most successful independent brands of the 21st century, brands like MB&F and Urwerk. Rather than investing their resources on reinventing the oscillating mass, these brands, much like Daniel Roth and Roger Dubuis decades earlier, put their considerable talents into reconceptualising how a watch looked and how it told the time.