Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo, 16202OR, Rose Gold

It is testament to the timelessness of Gerald Genta’s design of the 5402 that the reference 16202 is virtually identical to the now iconic original. In fact, much like the reference 15202 that the 16202 replaced as part of the 50th year of the Royal Oak, little has changed in terms of overall aesthetics.

The 39mm rose gold case features the same range of alternating vertical brushing and polished surfaces that give the Royal Oak its precise, jewel-like appearance, irrespective of the metal it is forged from. The case is marginally thicker than the reference 5402, coming in at just over 8mm. This is because it incorporates a new upgraded calibre as well as a display caseback, which the 5402 lacked.

The familiar petit tapisserie pattern on the dial is done using traditional straight-line engine, operated by hand. In this example, it wears a grey fumé appearance, achieved by physical vapour deposition (PVD), a process that allows for more precise colouration and a range of effects. Both processes are done in-house, in contrast to the dials on the reference 5402 that were created by Stern Frères.   

The rose gold baton-style hands and hour makers are filled with Superluminova while the date display at 3 o’clock features a black wheel with white numbering. The brand mark occupies the top half of the dial, while the bottom half features the applied ‘AP’ logo, also in rose gold.  

The reference 16202 also benefits from a subtly redesigned design bracelet, done to aid wearability for a variety of wrist sizes. It features the same solid construction the Royal Oak is known for, as well as range of precise finishes, with brushed surfaces articulating to reveal high polished facets. It culminates in a thoughtfully constructed double-fold clasp embellished with the brand’s signature.

The caseback is of the display variety that mirrors the construction of the dial-side bezel. The bezel holding the crystal of the caseback features the precious metal hallmarks as well as engravings of the brand name as well as the serial number. Visible through it is the slim, purpose-built calibre 7121, offering a significant upgrade on the calibre 2120/2121 that featured in previous iterations of the jumbo, such as the references 5402 and 15202. It is wholly re-engineered and features welcome conveniences such as a quickset date. The calibre, that beats at 28,000 vibrations per hour and offers 55 hours of autonomy, features a bi-directional winding mechanism. In this example, it includes not just a skeletonised rose gold winding rotor with the 50th year motif, but the balance bridge is also similarly open-worked and beautifully decorated in a combination of hand and machine finishing. The 50th anniversary commemorative rotor was produced only for one year.

The watch comes with all its paperwork and the box it was retailed with.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is in excellent overall condition. Little to no signs of wear are found throughout the case and bracelet, which likely remains unworn from new. Unusually, the brushed rose gold case shows attractive early signs of oxidation, which are found on the caseback and throughout the bracelet. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks found on the caseback and clasp are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.