Patek Philippe
Nautilus 3700/001 | "Jumbo" | steel

Cal. 28-255C

Regular price

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Patek Philippe
Nautilus 3700/001 | "Jumbo" | steel

Cal. 28-255C

Regular price

More than forty years have passed since the introduction of the original Patek Philippe Nautilus and this now classic timepiece, is more popular than ever. Originally unveiled in the mid-1970s and designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, the Nautilus ref. 3700/001A has become a veritable horological icon thanks to its pioneering role amongst high-end, luxury sports watches, with only 3,300 examples estimated to have been produced. The reference 3700 Nautilus is often referred to as ‘Jumbo’, on account of its relatively imposing size for the period.

History of the Nautilus

The early 1970s was a time of great change within the watch industry. At the time of its release, the world was already shifting towards highly-commercialised, quartz watchmaking. In 1969 Seiko launched the first quartz wristwatch, and its success drove the mechanical watch industry to critically low levels of production by the early 1980s.

Furthermore, the concept of a luxury watch in steel was a truly revolutionary idea.  In 1976, the introduction of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus firmly altered the direction of luxury sports watch design – offering a true competitor to Audemars Piguet's then four-year-old Royal Oakequally designed by Mr Genta. The Nautilus offered a different take on the idea of a luxury sports watch, though - like the Royal Oak - it was made in stainless steel for the standard version.

The ref. 3700/001A was not only unprecedented in its design, but also in its initial pricing to consumers. When the Nautilus was released, the retail price for the watch was $3,100 - considerable for the time, and comparable to many of Patek Philippe’s gold dress watches. 

The design

Remarkably, Gerald Genta is said to have sketched the 3700’s design whilst dining meters away from Patek Philippe executives. His “five minutes of work”, is today considered one of the masterpieces of modern design. Its etymology comes from Jules Verne’s novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, after the ‘Nautilus’ submarine, used by Captain Nemo.

Like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus’ water-resistant technology (120 meters) required innovative strategy. Gerald Genta’s inspiration for the iconic Nautilus architecture was to replicate that of the secure ‘porthole’ windows, found on transatlantic ocean liners, complete with a two-piece, solid mono-block and octagonal bezel, secured by four lateral screws (concealed at 3 and 9 o’clock), holding the case tightly together.

An early 3700 example

This steel Nautilus 3700/001A watch is the perfect balance between utilitarian function and elegant design. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with beveled, polished and granular surfaces. The all-original bracelet (with a full complement of links) has little to no stretch. At 42mm in diameter, and only 7.6mm thick, the 3700 case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. The inner-case-back correctly displays the watch’s unique serial number (537 XXX), as well as the reference number ‘3700/1’, below the manufacture’s signature. The underside of the hinge-inspired 'ears' (located at 3 and 9 o'clock) also display a 3-digit serial number, appropriately matching the last 3-digits on the inner case-back.

The hand-made, ridged dial, manufactured by Stern Fréres, displays horizontal grooves with deep grey colouration. The applied hour markers are tritium-filled, with ‘dot’ outer-minute divisions, and a date aperture at 3 o’clock (with original date-disc). With this example, the index-markers are manufactured from white gold, indicated by the lower case Greek letter ‘sigma’ at the bottom of the dial. 

The hands

With the objective of preserving them in their original condition, the original hands of the watch were replaced by Patek Philippe. Exceptionally, in an effort to maintain the visual coherence of the watch, Patek Philippe agreed, to artificially age Super Luminova hands, to match the colour of the hands and index-markers. As far as we are aware, this is the first time, up to this point, that Patek Philippe has carried out a request of this kind, with the intervention being confirmed by the servicing paperwork which accompanies this watch. This 3700/001A is also accompanied by the original handset, which shows signs of degradation. A service was carried out by Patek Philippe, in October 2019, though the dial, case and bracelet remained untouched. 

The bracelet

Two versions of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 existed, carrying the references 3700/001A and later, the ref. 3700/011A - with two subtle variations in bracelet design. The links of the ref. 3700/001 are noticeably-wider and straighter than the ref. 3700/011A, which featured a more exaggerated bracelet taper. Further to this, the bracelets found in earlier examples (like this 3700/001A) have fewer links, owing to each individual links’ larger size). The steel 3700/001A (with larger bracelet) was produced from 1976-82. The clasp of this 3700/001A bracelet corresponds to later examples of the 3700/001A (from 1977 onwards), where “Nautilus” is engraved alongside “PATEK PHILIPPE GENÉVE”, “STEEL INOX”, and “SWISS MADE”.

The movement

The Nautilus 3700/001A is powered by the ultra-slim calibre 28-255C, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed to by Patek Philippe, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin (found in the Royal Oak 5402 and VC 222). The 28-255C calibre features Patek Philippe's famed free-sprung Gyromax balance, with four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The solid-gold rotor is finished in classic Patek Philippe style, with circular Geneva stripes. The Patek Philippe calibre 28-255C remains one of the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movements in the world, considered by many as one of the most stunningly refined and technically impressive wrist-watch movements ever made. Importantly, its movement serial number (1.306.XXX) corresponds with its year of production.

The set
The present example was manufactured in 1977, evidenced by the accompanying Extract from the Archives, confirming the date of sale as January 17th, 1979. This 3700/001A Nautilus is also accompanied by Patek Philippe servicing paperwork, from October 2019, confirming servicing of the movement, new hour and minute hands (aged to bring closer to the colour of the tritium index-makers), and the replacement of an unsigned crown. 

In 2006, Patek Philippe marked the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus by introducing the reference 5711/1A, which itself has already achieved something akin to a cult-like status. Our original, 3700/001A therefore represents an exceptional opportunity to acquire the founding reference of what is today, one of the world's rarest and most desirable vintage sports watches.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: Nautilus 3700/001A ('A' denoting 'acier' or 'steel')
Movement: mechanical automatic-winding calibre 28-255C
Functions: date, hours, minutes
Features: original ridged dial, hands aged by Patek Philippe
Case: 42mm stainless steel
Crystal: sapphire
Bracelet: 3700/001A stainless steel bracelet, correctly signed clasp
Year: 1977 (manufacture) - sold in 1979
Box & papers: Extract from the Archives, Patek Philippe servicing paperwork
This Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/001A comes with an Extract from the Archives (dated 2019). The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with beveled, polished and granular surfaces - displaying only minor superficial marks/grazes. Both the case and bracelet are original to the watch, with appropriately corresponding signatures throughout (wider-link bracelet, produced between 1976-82, “Nautilus” engraved alongside “PATEK PHILIPPE GENÉVE”, “STEEL INOX”, and “SWISS MADE” on the clasp). The bracelet has very little stretch.

The inner-case-back correctly displays the watch’s unique serial number (537 XXX), as well as the reference number ‘3700/1’, below the manufacture’s signature. The applied hour markers are (original) tritium-filled, with ‘dot’ outer-minute divisions and replacement Super Luminova baton-hands (aged by Patek Philippe to match the inner markers). The mechanical functionality of this 3700/001A is covered with a 24 month warranty from Patek Philippe, from 8th October 2019 onwards. 

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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