A Historic Lineage
First introduced in 1932, the Calatrava reference 96 was one of the earliest wristwatches ever released by Patek Philippe. The manufacture had just been purchased by Charles and Henri Stern, and this was the first model they released, with the intention of breathing a new life into the Genevan brand. Looking back, this original design is considered by many as the ultimate blueprint for a time-only dress watch. Since its inception, the Calatrava has taken on many different forms, with some of the vintage configurations having become particularly sought after by collectors.
Produced for a brief period, between 1997 and 2003, the Patek Philippe ref. 5022 continues this tradition. In many ways, it combines the reliability of modern Patek Philippe production with the aesthetics of their vintage pieces, from the slim case profile to the nostalgic Breguet numerals. The reference was made in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum.
The Design
This Patek Philippe 5022 leans into the classic aesthetic embodied by Patek Philippe. Its crisp white dial features printed Breguet numerals, a nod to one of the most desirable features found on some vintage Patek Philippe Calatravas. These are complemented by the Breguet style hands, which float above the dial. A subsidiary seconds indication sits at 6 o'clock, subtly placed higher up on the dial, giving the numerals space to breathe. The "Patek Philippe Geneve" signature features subtle serif details, which have now been lost on current pieces from the manufacture, further imbuing this piece with a distinctive "neo-vintage" aesthetic.
The white gold case features a stepped bezel and straight lugs, reminiscent of those found on some vintage pieces. At 33.5mm in diameter, with 38mm lug to lug, the proportions of the Calatrava are perfectly balanced, helping it fulfil its role as a classic dress watch. The straight lugs, as well as the relatively large 18mm lug width, help the watch feel larger on the wrist than its dimensions would otherwise suggest. With a thickness just under 7mm, it also hugs the wrist, in a way that is both comfortable and elegant. The hallmarks, found on the side of the lugs, and the caseback are crisp and deep, suggesting that this piece remains in unpolished condition.
The movement
This Patek Philippe 5022 is powered by the manual-winding caliber 215 PS, which beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 44-hour power reserve. The movement is subtly finished, with chamfering on some of the angles, as well as polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping.
This movement carries the Geneva Seal, which is unique in its accreditation as it focuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.
The Set
This Patek Philippe ref. 5022 comes with its original box, Certificate of Origin (confirming sale in Germany in March 2002) and manuals. It comes on one of our Zürich taupe grained calfskin straps, and is also accompanied by its original Patek Philippe alligator strap and 18K white gold buckle.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe 5022 will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.